Most of our Trail X sizes offer two water bottle mounts located inside the main frame. Running the cables up under the top tube keeps cables and housing out of the muck for more precise and reliable shifting performance. The aluminum frame of the Trail X and Helix is beefed up to include a larger The larger diameter post flexes less, providing a firmer pedaling platform. This reduces the total stack height including the head tubewhich is beneficial on larger wheeled bikes. Improve this question.A Zero Stack internal headset places both the cups and bearings inside the head tube instead of outside. Is it needed just in case if something wrong or once a year or after some amount of km? By maintenance, I mean something like this. Stack Overflow for Teams - Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group.Ĭreate a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Korean romantic moviesĮxperience from a strong bike hire at a large holiday park. On the other hand, they are easy to disassemble and reassemble so you may wish to do this just to get a feel for how it works. The bike may see daily use on gravel tracks etc for a couple of seasons with no fork maintenance, the performance of the fork deteriorating slowly over that time. In this type of usage, where minimising costs and downtime is important, the forks are typically only considered in need of attention if play is detected between the upper and lower sections.Ī rebuild with parts, as others have noted, is more than the cost of a new fork including labour so the fork is typically replaced as a unit. These forks are often fitted to mass market bikes of a quality that frequently end up in bike hires etc. But in my experience, forks such as these are more weight, maintenance, and cost burden than they are worth in performance benefits. Now the last thing I want to do here is bike shame anyone. That's to say that you would not service your cheap XC? This is still much cheaper than any replacement, so it does make sense to service it if your labour is cheap.Īccording to SR Suntour's general fork manual page 14there are two maintenance intervals. This cartridge has rebound damping and is better than other types such as HLO, or cartridgeless models. With regards to the nuts, correctly torquing the nuts is important to stop the fork falling apart, but you wouldn't need to replace them often. The wipers will perish at some point and would need replacing after several years but probably you'd not buy those right away. There are lots of brands of fork grease, some grease is too thick - it should liquify in use under heat. The cost of a service as shown in the video is a one-off purchase of tools and some grease. In other words the slider sleeves are intended to be a service item, but you don't need the service kit - you do need tools and grease, and you WILL need to replace the slider sleeves which are absent from XCRbut NOT every service. Replace the slider sleeves if the play is excessive more than 1 mm at the fork brace. To do so, apply the front wheel brake and gently push the bicycle back and forth at the handlebar stem shaft. Before disassembly, check the slider sleeve play of the fork. On an XCR fork you still have the wipers, but no slider sleeves. The diassembly visible there is of an old XCM fork without cartridge damper. Connect and share knowledge within a single location that is structured and easy to search. I suppose in an effort to keep costs down and give people some give in their ride this fork has it's place but knowing what I know now after a few years of tolerating it I would have asked my LBS to swap it for a rigid fork right from the start until I could afford something better.Bicycles Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for people who build and repair bicycles, people who train cycling, or commute on bicycles. These issues leave me with little confidence to really use my bike as anything more than a daily commuter so I have finally decided to replace the fork with something better. This thing is also very heavy upsetting the balance of the bike making traversing even city obstacles like a curb an effort. The ability to lock out this version is nice but it feels fragile and I fear if I didn't set the fork to its hardest setting first what ever mech inside would just snap at the first obstacle. The bound/rebound is essentially that of a basic spring but even at that it feels chunky and harsh. I can't comment about price since this was a OEM part on my bike but the ride quality and overall usability of this fork is limited to basic commuting, leisure riding on the community path or light (very light) off-road/path riding.
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